Mac Photography Tips

In the World of Mac Photography February 20, 2009

Filed under: Beginner Tips, Intermediate Tips — bakari @ 4:57 pm

From time to time, I will post links to other interesting Mac related photo tips.
Here’s my first five:

1. What To Know About iPhoto ‘09 Face Detection and Recognition [Apple]

2. Aperture for Nature Photographers

3. Automating Aperture If you’re curious about some ways to use Apple’s AppleScript program with Aperture, check out this site.

4. iPhoto ’09’s Places (geotagging): You can of course manually add geo tags to your photos in iPhoto, but photographer/writer Derrick Story did some research for a GPS device for those of us who don’t have such a feature installed on our camera(s).

5. Using iPhoto ‘09 to backup your Flickr photos. Very useful tip and an easy way to backup iPhoto images.

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Canon’s Live View Mode at Apple’s Keynote February 13, 2009

Filed under: Beginner Tips, Camera Tip, Canon 50D, Intermediate Tips — bakari @ 6:38 pm

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Note: I wrote this article during the week of Macworld ‘09, but I never got around to posting it. But since the topic is really not about Macworld itself, but about the Canon 50D, it’s still a topical piece.

There’s much that I could say about the lackluster product announcements at this year’s Macworld ‘09, but I’d prefer to wear my photographer’s hat and focus on my use of the Live View feature of the Canon 50D camera during the Apple keynote at Macworld.

I recently purchased the 50D, (the latest release of Canon’s EOS digital cameras), and one of its features I was looking forward to is the Live View mode. Live View is a feature of nearly all of Canon’s point-and-shoot and compact digital cameras, such as the Powershot G9 and G10. In fact, the Live View mode of compact digital cameras is typically the only way to effectively capture photos. It’s almost impossible to view subjects in the tiny optical viewfinders of most of these compact cameras. So being a owner of Powershot G9, I’ve grown accustomed to Live View feature. The nice 3″ size LCD monitor on the back of these cameras is a great way to view and capture images. These monitors typically include the ability to bring up exposure information (e.g. ISO, aperture, and shutter speed settings) about a photo before and after it’s shot. So basically the Live View acts like a video camera where you view your subjects and compose the shot using the LCD screen, and then click the shutter button to capture the photo.

Though this feature is really great for compact cameras, it hasn’t been a traditional feature of most 35mm DSLR cameras like the Canon Xti or the 50D. I believe the Canon XS/1000D was the first of the EOS line of cameras to include this feature. Why has this feature been missing from DSLRs? Well, Ben Long explains it best in his book, The Canon EOS Digital Rebel XS/1000D Companion Book: “To create an image on LCD screen, the image sensor needs to be able to see out the lens. But in an SLR [35mm single reflects camera], there’s a shutter and mirror between the sensor and lens, so the sensor is effectively, blind. This means there’s no way for it…to show you an image on the LCD screen. The XS, though, provides a special feature called Live View that does let you use the LCD screen as the viewfinder.”

It’s for this reason that when I first started using my Canon 50D, I found the Live View mode a little clunky and not as nearly as fast as with my using the same feature on my Canon Powershot G9 (which is not a 35mm camera.) When you click its activation button, you can actually hear the camera’s mirror flip up so that subject you’re capturing appears in the LCD screen. This activation is a little slow and somewhat distracting to use on a 35mm camera. As a wedding photographer, I knew I would not be using the LCD monitor of the camera to capture photos. It takes longer to gain autofocus, and you can’t compose shots as quickly as you can using a traditional viewfinder.

So up until attending Macworld I had not used Live View mode with my Canon 50D, nor had I yet used the camera to shoot a wedding. But when I arrived at Macworld keynote, I was instantly reminded of how Live View could be very useful for shooting live presentations.

At the keynote, I sat in the media section, about ten rows back from where Phil Schiller was to give his presentation. As I was configuring the settings on my camera, I looked up and saw some other media reps using the LCD screen of their compact cameras to frame shots at the keynote. In the past when I photographed the keynote, I would stand up from my seat and quickly take shots with a long zoom lens attached to the camera. This would sometimes mean blocking the view of one or two other people behind me. So seeing those small point-and-shoot cameras and cell phones in action, I realized I could use Live View on my own camera.
Macworld

During the keynote I didn’t know everything about using this feature on the 50D, but I did figure out how to activate it and was able to take some fairly decent shots. Though I sat two seats away from the isle, I still didn’t have a good vantage point in order to take photos of the keynote. So in raising the camera over my head, I was surprised about how good the viewing angle was in order to frame shots. While you can’t pull out and re-adjust the monitor, as can do with with some other cameras using this feature, you do get a very nice and clear view of your subject in the 3″ LCD screen. And according to the camera’s manual, what you view in the monitor is 100% coverage. So what you view in the screen is what appears in the photo.

After I left the keynote and started playing around with the Live View feature I discovered that there are a couple of ways to achieve good focus using Live View mode, and there are some significant limitations to using this feature as well.

Advantages
As I said, this feature is great for shooting live events where your viewing access to the subjects being photographed are difficult to achieve. This feature is also useful for micro and night photography shots. Mounting your camera on a tripod, you can often get a better view of your subject using the live feature mode. In addition, because the live feature on some digital cameras includes what is called “exposure simulation,” you are able to see the brightness level of the photo before you take the shot. When the camera’s meter’s the shot, you can make changes to the exposure and see how those changes will impact the image.

Also, all Canon cameras using Live View include what is called Face Detection mode which, when enabled, helps you get a better focus on the faces that you’re trying to capture.

Disadvantages of Live View
Just as with point-and-shoot cameras, there are some disadvantages to using the LCD monitor for capturing images on a 35mm camera. First off, in this mode, you typically get more camera shake because you can’t hold the camera as steady as you can when using the optical viewfinder. It works best if have the camera is on a tripod. I see people holding their small camera all the time using one hand, and that’s often the reason why they get fuzzy or out-of-focus images. As you can see in the shot I’ve included in this article, Live View mode makes getting well focused and sharp pictures a challenge. I took numureous shots at the keynote by raising the camera over my head, but I was not always able to hold the camera steady, especially in the low light conditions.

Trying to capture subjects moving across or back and forth from the camera can also be tricky in the Live View mode. In addition, autofocusing is much slower in Live View than when using the viewfinder. Live View also consumes more battery power than in normal operation. The same goes with using the LCD monitor on a video camera. Battery power can be cut in half.

While these disadvantages are significant, Live View is still a very useful feature, and it’s great to have it now on Canon EOS cameras.

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iPhoto’s Flickr and Facebook Export Feature February 10, 2009

Filed under: Beginner Tips, Software, iPhoto — bakari @ 9:10 pm

If you’re a regular Flickr.com or Facebook.com user, you no doubt use some sort of uploading client to post your photos to your account. The latest upgrade of iPhoto ‘09 includes built-in Flickr and Facebook exporting features that are useful but very incomplete. The export buttons are found in iPhoto’s toolbar, and they work similarly to the MobileMe web gallery features of iPhoto.

When you click on the Flickr or Facebook button, you are invited to select how you want to share your selected photos and what size you want them to be. The first photos you upload will constitute an album on your Flickr or Facebook account. You can’t upload to your existing albums on your Flickr or Facebook account. But once you create a new album using iPhoto’s export feature, you can simply add new photos to it as you would any other iPhoto album or you can create new albums for new images.

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Connected Flow’s FlickrExport
This new Flickr/Facebook export feature is slightly better than using Connected Flow’s popular FlickrExport plug-in for iPhoto in that you can upload selected photos right within the application’s main interface. With FlickrExport, you have to open the plug-in using File>Export. But on the other hand, FlickExport has additional options that don’t exist in iPhoto ’09’s export feature. With FlickrExport, you can select an existing album and Flickr group on your account. You can also add Flickr tags to your photos from within the plug-in or select your existing one.

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However, as a daily Flickr user, I find both export tools limiting. A full featured (e.g. professional) export application would include ways to upload photos to more than one existing album and Flickr group at a time. And because many dedicated Flickr users are members of several dozens of groups, there should be a way to select and create a panel list of favorite and most often accessed groups to add images to. There should also be a way to download photos from your Flickr account into your iPhoto or Aperture library.

Flickery
The closest full-featured application that I know of in this regard is Eternal Storms’s Flickery. You can access all your image files on your computer, including your iPhoto and/or Aperture library. After making image selections, you can indicate which Flickr sets you want your photos to go to, as well as apply your Flickr tags to each or all your selected image files. So basically, Flickery is a client-side application for your Flickr account. You can not only upload photos through the application, but you can download photos from your Flickr account into iPhoto, as well view your previously posted images and sets, plus the photos of other Flickr members including your contacts. In this regard, Flickery outshines both iPhoto and CoverFlows’s export tools. Except for not being able to add photos to your Flickr groups, Flickery enables you to complete your uploading process without having to visit the site itself. So this public beta application has a lot of promise for us dedicated Flickr users.

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Additional Flickr Resources
If you’re looking for additional resources for Flickr, check out Flickrbits. It’s an awesome set of links to official Flickr applications; mobile, Mac, Linux, and Windows applications; developers’ tools, and plug-ins and extensions.

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Using iPhoto ’09’s Adjust Tool February 3, 2009

Filed under: Beginner Tips, Software, iPhoto — bakari @ 10:11 pm

iPhoto With digital photography, it’s every easy to take several hundreds of photos at a time, with no added expense. But just because you take 500 vacation photos doesn’t mean you have to process them all. You can choose some of your best photos from the shoot and take a little extra time to improve upon them using iPhoto’s post-production tools. Apple has made the exposure and color adjustment process in iPhoto fairly easy and in some cases less time consuming than working in Adobe Photoshop Elements or one of the larger CS programs. This article will describe how to use the Adjust tool on an average photo.

Our Original Photo
Let’s take a typical photo that you might capture at an amusement park. The photo below, except for the added annotation, has had no adjustment made to it. Here are a few problems with the picture:

Before photo.png

1. The lighting in the photo is dull and lacking in strong color contrast.

2. The colors in the photo could be more saturated.

3. And lastly there is some digital noise in the photo. Digital noise is basically caused by using a high ISO setting on the camera. This photo was shot at ISO 400 (which is the default ISO setting that I use on both my Canon Powershot G9 and my Canon 50D.) ISO 400 works pretty well for average daylight outdoor and indoor lighting, and it’s not so high that it causes real digital noise problems. Noise is visible in this photo, but iPhoto can fix it pretty well.

Using the Adjust Tool
The Adjust tool has four areas that you can work through to improve the exposure and color of a photo. Some adjustments you make will be corrections to problems in the photo, while other adjustments will be enhancements and sometimes radical changes to an image.

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1. The top Levels part of the Adjust panel is where you want to start. If you move the sliders in the second section of the Adjust panel, you’ll see that it makes similar adjustments to the Levels slider. The right side of the Levels slider is what you use to make a photo brighter by moving the slider toward the left. The left side of the slider is used make the photo darker, by moving it toward the right. And of course the middle of the slider affects the mid-tones of the photo. The difference between Levels and Exposure is that the latter impacts the entire image, whereas Level adjustments affect just either the highlight, shadows, and mid-tones of the image.

The beauty of the Adjust tool is that you can make as many adjustments as you like, and your original image will not be touched. You can always use the Undo shortcut keystroke (Command+Z) or the Revert button at the bottom of the panel to get rid of your adjustments. So there’s nothing keeping you from experimenting. Also note, however, that changing the exposure level of a photo in the iPhoto library also changes the appearance of that same photo if it is used in a slideshow, book, or calendar of iPhoto. If you want two separate versions of an image, you need to duplicate the image (Photos>Duplicate or Command + D) and then make the adjustments.

2. Next, move to the Exposure, Contrast, and Saturation sliders of the Adjust tool. If the overall photo is too dark, move the Exposure slider to the right. If it’s too dark, move it the left. Rarely should you need to move the slider to extreme left or right if you made a fairly good and correct exposure when initially taking the photo.

The Contrast slider is is one of the most useful adjustments you can make to improve your photos. You will typically increase the contrast in most of your photos by moving the slider to the right. Move back and forth between the Exposure slider and the Contrast slider to get the enhancement you want. Earlier versions of the Adjust panel included a Brightness slider next to the Contrast slider, but Apple was smart to get rid of it. The Exposure slider does the same thing as the Brightness slider.

If the colors in your image seem rather dull or cloudy, the Saturation slider can help. You move the slider to the right to increase the saturation, and if you want to desaturate the image to see how it might look in black-and-white, then move the slider all the way to the left. (Desaturating the photo, however, is not the best way to create a quality black-and-white or monochrome image.)

3. The 3rd part of the Adjust tool is mainly for fine tuning. The Definition slider adds more detail and a boost in contrast in parts of the image. It almost seems as if it sharpens the image. The Highlights and Shadows sliders work similar to the Exposure and Levels sliders. Move the Highlights slider to the right if you want to bring detail the brightest part of the image. This slider won’t be very effective if you have over exposed areas in your image, such as you see with the white bright parts of the photo used in this article. The Shadows slider helps you bring back detail in the darker area of your photo. The Shadows tool can’t correct too effectively the over exposed parts of the photo. Neither slider should be taken to the extreme right, at least not with your average photo.

The next slider is the Sharpness tool, but it should typically be the last adjustment you make. The Sharpness tool cannot fix a poorly focused photo, but it can help bring sharpness or detail to fairly focused images. So be sure to hold your camera as steady as possible when taking photos in order to get the best use of the Sharpness tool.

The De-noise slider in my view is pretty good for a consumer-based adjustment program. The noise problem is not always noticeable, but for photos you plan to print, you might want use the De-noise slider to help smooth out some of the digital noise. In the examples below, I zoomed into a part of the sample photo to provide a closer look of digital noise (top image), and what difference it makes when the De-noise is applied (botton image). I use Nik Sotfware’s Dfine 2.0 plug-in for Aperture to take care of all my noise issues. But De-noise does a pretty good job in my view for a consumer application like iPhoto, so it doesn’t hurt to apply it.

Left photo.png

 

Right photo.png

4. The temperature slider is one of the last tools that you will want to use in your adjustment process. In prior versions of iPhoto, the Temperature slider was near the top sections of the panel, as it is in Aperture 2.0. I think it should have remained near the top because it’s one of the first adjustments you might want to make to improve an image. You of course move the slider to right to warm up the photo (like adding warm sunlight to the scene) or take it to the left cool the image down. This temperature slider cannot correct White Balance problems in your image. If for example your original photo is too blue, yellow or purple, the temperature slider really can’t correct the problem. If your image is a RAW file, you can open it up in an application like Aperture 2.0 and make the correction. iPhoto will accept RAW files, but you can’t get the full editing capabilities of RAW files in iPhoto, in the way you can with Aperture or Adobe’s Camera Raw application.

Finally Tint tool is something I rarely use for normal photos. It is there if you add some funky coloring to your photos for various types of color effects.

Effects and Enhance Tools

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If all this adjustment stuff is too much for you, then you might just pop open the Effects feature in iPhoto and use that. Click on the Boost Color box and see how it impacts the image. You can click it more than once to increase its application. Sometimes it does a really good job, for a down-and-dirty color enhancement. You can also click and add one or more effects to the same photo to see what happens. If you mess up the image, just click the center Original box to start over.

In the toolbar of iPhoto, there’s also an Enhance feature that is a quick color and contrast boosting tool that you might try applying first to see if it improves your photo.

Copy and Paste Adjustments
With iPhoto ‘08, Apple added a way to copy adjustments you make one photo and apply them to another one. You can only paste adjustments to one photo at a time, which is really a bummer. I figure Apple thinks batch processing exposure and color adjustments might be too overwhelming for the average iPhoto user, or that it might make iPhoto seem more and more like its pro version application, Aperture. Nevertheless, if you use iPhoto a lot, learn to use the copy and paste feature of the Adjust panel. It will save you some time and hassle in the adjustment part of your process.

After photo.png

Well, as you can see, this is the result of making adjustments to our sample photo. The colors are richer, the over-all contrast is deeper, and, believe it or not, there’s less digital noise in the image. iPhoto is not Photoshop or Aperture 2.0, but it’s a great application for those who don’t to spend a lot of time managing and processing pictures.

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